Smiles all around--Sept 23, 2008

Today is a great day. I saw Ahmet. He stopped me on my way to lunch to wish me well. Who is Ahmet you ask? Ahmet is the “guardien” (security guard) in a very important residential area across the Corniche from my apartment building. One day I was walking back from the shore where I discovered the nearest beach, and as I was walking down the street, not knowing if I was on private property, Ahmet approached me and greeted me. When I asked him if I was on a private street, he reassured me that I was on public property, but the mansion he guards belongs to a Construction baron who is Lebanese, of course. The houses next door and behind the Lebanese belong to former cabinet ministers of the government, while the house kitty corner to the Lebanese right on the water belongs to the Minister of Finance...who knew?! In his explanation I thought he asked me if I was Lebanese, yet he understood that I asked him if he were Lebanese! Of course, with 100% Black Senegalese skin, that was NOT the case, but I did proceed to tell him I was of Lebanese origin. He then began to sing the praises of the business acumen of Lebanese in Senegal. I was quick to tell him that, as for me, I was not one of them...unfortunately, I think. Ahmet told me to come back and visit him often and he would show me around. So today when he saw me, he wanted to know why I hadn’t come to visit and when I would; I told him tonight or tomorrow. My colleague said that soon I would know all of Dakar. Remember Elie, when we all called you “Mr. Detroit”?! That part of the Lebanese genome I do share.

This morning I, along with my two colleagues, met with Ibrahim Ba who is reponsible for English language instruction for the Ministry of Education. I went with his assistant Marie, and Dieynaba Toure from the U.S. Embassy to the school where I would teach. It is, in fact, Mahib Lo’s school, the school of my exchange partner who is now at North Farmington. We arrived unannounced into a decrepit room that looked like it was used as a conference room or the teacher’s lounge. One long table with irregular chairs, one working flourescent bulb and three or four broken or missing bulbs hanging precariously from the ceiling. The paint was a dingy yellow, pealing everywhere, and hanging down in patches of 2 square feet. Baas Diop, the principal, was in his cotton shirt and sandals and graciously welcomed us into the space. Again, he did not know we were coming, nor did he know who we were! We proceeded to tell him that I was one of the American Fulbright teachers, and wasn’t he aware, that the Ministry had assigned me to his school. Unphased, he said he had not yet received word, but he was happy to have me. He said the staff is like a family and that I was now part of the family. I thanked him profusely, all the while being in shock of his reception of the news, not having prior knowledge. Then again, the Ministry was bringing me to him and did not set up the meeting. Advance planning, setting up and confirming appointments...T.I.A. (This Is Africa) Marie from the Ministry had told us that the first day of school is decided upon by presidential decree, and because Ramadan was ending perhaps on Wednesday, October 1, rumor had it President Wade would declare Monday, October 6 as the return date. However, that was pure speculation, and normally teachers report before the students, but again, because of Ramadan, the date for teachers to report was not yet decided (today is September 23!). Perhaps the teachers and students will both start on the same day, but we were told that would be quite a rare happeninng! Back to the principal: I proceeded to ask him about my schedule and courseload and he initially rattled off some courses and said it would be about 16 hours of instruction a week. I had been told previously that was at the high end of a courseload, so I simply asked him if I could teach fewer hours. He adjusted immediately, said I would teach “sixieme” (the equivalent of 6th grade) and would have about 11 hours of instruction a week. Drawing on that business acumen in my blood of which I am certain I must have a trace, I then petitioned to teach only Monday through Thursday; he said no problem! He told me to come back next Monday (September 29) to receive my official schedule. We exchanged phone numbers and then we left.
When I got home, I found that the plumber and building manager had fixed all the water problems; after three weeks I now have hot water throughout the apartment and enough water pressure to take a shower. To top it off, my cleaning lady washed all the clothes and sheets, ironed my clothes that were drying on the line, and folded them neatly and tucked them away into my dresser. And guess what, it’s not even 5 p.m. I’m finishing a cafe latte that I made, and then I’m going to go for my run along the Corniche. Today may be the best day yet!