Touba and Tivavouane

The last two weekends I visited two holy cities here in Senegal: Touba and Tivavouane. The first is home to the Mourides, a sect/fraternity of Senegalese Islam, which is defined by their allegiance to the Mouride Marabout (Spiritual Guide/Leader). Many Senegalese Muslims adhere to a fraternity, so such membership plays a large role in self-identification. In Touba the Marabout heralds from a lineage of the Mbake family. The family solicits funds which they have used to build up the city and the mammoth Mosque and religious shrine. Tivavouane, a smaller city and mosque, is home to the Tijanes, the second largest fraternity.

While in Tivavouane for an English Language Teacher conference, I thought for a minute I was in the Middle East. We were taken to a home to relax before the start of the conference. The home belonged to the Imam (Muslim cleric), and in the courtyard, Quranic school was being held for about 40 youngsters who ranged from 6 to 12 years old. The boys were being led by two other teenage boys in reading, reciting, and committing to memory verses of the Holy Book. It really was not much different than Orthodox Jewish youngsters learning the Torah, or Christian youngsters learning the Bible in VBS or Catechism. The image though, seemed so foreign to western eyes. The boys were adorable and wanted us to take their picture, but as the Imam was not home, we did not have his permission so were advised not to do so. We went inside and sat in the living room that had ornate furniture typical of Arab households, framed Arabic verses on the walls, and Arabic music sifting through the windows from another courtyard. What a setting! Then, we exchanged pleasantries in English and Wolof before resorting to French.


Moustapha is the teacher who was supposed to be my Fulbright Exchange Partner...what a pity that did not happen!

The conference was held at the abandoned hotel in the town, and began with much fanfare two hours after the scheduled start. I attended with my two Fulbright colleagues, and we were received like dignitaries. Native English speakers all the way from the United States coming to this English language colloquium in the interior of the country, what an honor for them! I was asked to say a few words at the start and again when we departed. We three ate it up, and the formalities were quite entertaining. The whole conference was conducted in English as teachers from that city and rural villages discussed the benefits and challenges of Cooperative Learning and Needs Analysis in the English language classroom. I was so humbled by their commitment to and command of the English language. In the States, French teachers or Spanish teachers would NEVER conduct their professional development seminars in that language; we do not have such ability.

So much to learn, every single day.